Nestling by the Libyan Sea in the southeast corner of Crete is Makrigialos, home to the Artemis Hotel, a small, family-run establishment of just 30 rooms. Fronting a glorious sandy beach which shelves gently around the bay for half a mile or so, it’s a modest place, not for those seeking a high-end luxury resort, but the unique location offers access to a hidden Crete that so many visitors never see and countless opportunities for discovering a different side of this great island that's every bit as compelling as the tourist trails further west. For a glimpse of this extraordinary landscape, please view our Hidden Crete video. 

The local area is largely focussed on agriculture, yielding an astonishing array of products; consequently tourism has less prominence here and once you turn off the main thoroughfare that runs along by the sea, a different world unfolds. Time has stood still and delightful small tavernas lie at the heart of the hillside villages with rural prices to match, and though the food may take a little longer to prepare, it’s freshly cooked and more than worth the wait.  

The jewel in the crown is Pefki, where Piperia Restaurant is renowned for being one of the best for traditional Cretan fare. The proud owner Fanis uses only local ingredients – wild greens, artichokes, pomegranates, mushrooms – all collected on the nearby hillsides at different times of the year. The energetic will walk up the Pefki Gorge from Makrigialos to get there; more measured souls take a taxi and step out for the spectacular journey back down. Either way a visit is essential to experience Cretan hospitality at its very best; unhurried, unpretentious and utterly delicious.

The area is a walker’s paradise and there are many lesser-known archaeological sites too, including the impressive Moni Kapsa monastery, just a 10-minute drive from Makrigialos. Or, if you fancy travelling further afield, it's possible to rent a car for a couple of days to head further east and explore Xerokambos, Kato Zakros and Kouremenos. 

At the hotel itself, you are guaranteed a warm welcome from Maria, the owner’s daughter, whose infectious passion for philoxenia shines through in everything she does. For Simpson Travel guests we have reserved eight rooms in the hotel – the Beach Collection and the Palm Tree Collection. Situated on the ground and first floors respectively, they are comfortable and cool, all with balconies or terraces overlooking the sea. The four Beach Collection rooms are larger and have their own loungers on the lawn beyond their terraces with steps leading directly down to the sea; the balconies of the first floor rooms offer a little more privacy with uninterrupted views across the bay. A lovely beachfront dining area with multicoloured tables is set out under a canopy of almiriki trees; served by the hotel restaurant it offers all the familiar Greek specialities and is celebrated locally as one of the best traditional eateries in the village.   

Further bars and tavernas are a short stroll along the sand and though the hotel beach is a real draw, those in search of more solitary shores should head for Diaskari, just a 15-minute stroll away. Here, it feels wild and undiscovered (notwithstanding the excellent taverna at its entrance) and further along the coast again, a number of small, deserted beaches are scarcely visited, even in the height of summer.  

For those interested in discovering an authentic taste of island life from a time gone by, Artemis couldn’t be better placed. As the history of this special spot begins to weave its way into your heart, its unpolished edges only begin to add to the appeal. Equally, the rooms are an excellent choice for anyone who values warm, attentive service, value for money and a magnificent stretch of sandy coastline for a week to drop and flop. 

Explore Hidden Crete

If you’re keen to see more of Hidden Crete, we are happy to arrange bespoke itineraries in May and October, combining a stay at our Simpson Collection @ Artemis Hotel with our other hotel in the east of the island, Mochlos Blue. Please call our Destination Specialists for further information.

Our choice of Greek properties is as diverse as the islands themselves, ranging from simple seaside charm to genuine luxury and style. Much of our portfolio is privately owned, and price alone is therefore not a universal guide. We contract all our accommodation in person, and each property has its individual appeal. To help you make the right choice based on your own priorities, we have devised a simple grading guide to be considered in conjunction with each individual property description, awarding up to a maximum of five stars for the below categories.