There’s nothing quite like arriving by boat to evoke a sense of anticipation and excitement, and unless you’re prepared to make your way on foot over the mountains or trek along the spectacular coastal path, it is from the sea that you must catch your first glimpse of Loutro. On the shores of south west Crete, with no roads in or out, it shimmers against the rugged splendour of the dramatic Lefka Ori; its modest sweep of whitewashed guesthouses and tavernas fringed by water so impossibly blue you might begin to suspect a mirage.

Loutro’s powerful first impression is swiftly followed by a profound sense of liberation; stepping from your water taxi, the trials and tribulations of the wider world seem to melt away as this enchanting fishing village begins to cast its spell. The exhilarating contrasts of the landscape are reflected all around; Loutro feels at once both sleepy yet animated, civilised yet untamed, unpretentious yet exclusive. Those in the know consider themselves a pretty privileged crowd and they return again and again; not for the sprawling resort hotels and Michelin starred restaurants (you’ll find nothing so brazen or obvious here) but for the gentle simplicity of everyday life, the honest hospitality of their Cretan hosts and the sheer jaw-dropping beauty of the spot.

Our accommodation, run by the charismatic Alison Androulakakis and her daughter Sophia, is divided between two charming hotels, Porto Loutro on the Beach and Porto Loutro on the Hill. The names tell you almost everything you need to know. Barely a three-minute stroll away from each other, the two hotels offer simply furnished rooms, with supremely comfortable beds and en-suite facilities, and a balcony or terrace to appreciate the astonishing view. It’s a conundrum to choose between them. Porto Loutro on the Beach is very much at the heart of village life, enjoying pole position along the waterfront; the amble from bed to sea takes a matter of moments for a morning dip before a continental breakfast on the hotel’s pretty terrace. Porto Loutro on the Hill is a step removed from the gentle hubbub, with larger rooms and a more contemporary feel. There’s also a restaurant on the elevated terrace where a buffet breakfast is served, though there’s nothing to stop you enjoying an evening meal here, whichever venue you choose.

A dozen or so inviting bars and tavernas fringe the bay, serving local specialities, fresh fish and homemade delicacies; a leisurely stroll from one end of the village to the other takes no more than ten minutes, allowing for an ice-cream stop along the way. What to do then, other than idle the days away on the beach, enjoy a leisurely game of backgammon with the locals, or set off in a kayak to explore the bay? The answer is entirely up to you. All the secrets of southern Crete await should you wish to discover them: a world of hidden coves, formidable caves, tiny chapels and long forgotten ruins. Whether you set off on foot or hire a boat, the wonders and spectacles of this astonishing coast will delight the imagination and stir the soul. For sustenance, take a picnic and enjoy an interlude along the way, or visit one of the few stand-alone tavernas, as modest and welcoming as their intrepid owners. You don’t have to venture far to enjoy the powerful remoteness of the spot and bathe in the heavenly water unobserved, barring the odd goat you may encounter, and a pilgrimage to the mouth of the Samaria Gorge is perfectly doable for those in search of adventure.

If you’re after an all-singing-all-dancing week away with a profusion of mod cons (or even an ATM) then this, perhaps, is not for you. If, on the other hand, you are looking to immerse yourself in life’s simple pleasures and discover the myriad joys of an unspoilt coastline that rivals any you could dare to dream of then Loutro is, most certainly, the place.

Looking for 10 nights..? Why not add a 3-night stay at a hotel in another part of the island to your holiday. To find out more, view our 10-night holidays in Greece.

Explore our pre-bookable experiences in Crete

Our choice of Greek properties is as diverse as the islands themselves, ranging from simple seaside charm to genuine luxury and style. Much of our portfolio is privately owned, and price alone is therefore not a universal guide. We contract all our accommodation in person, and each property has its individual appeal. To help you make the right choice based on your own priorities, we have devised a simple grading guide to be considered in conjunction with each individual property description, awarding up to a maximum of five stars for the below categories.