Occi abandoned village

Set on the hillside a little way inland from Lumio, Occi village is a haunting yet picturesque jumble of ruins dating back to the 1800s. While it’s not clear why the village was abandoned, it’s very obvious why someone would have originally chosen this impressive spot to live. The word occi means ‘eye’ in local dialect, and the views out to Calvi and the sea are truly magnificent, especially at sunset. There are no proper roads into Occi now, but you can reach it on foot in 20 to 30 minutes from the centre of Lumio; a fairly steep but straightforward walk. Alternatively you can start down at the coast for a longer and wonderfully rewarding hike.

Asco Valley natural swimming pools

Natural rock pools and basins are a special feature of Corsica’s mountainous interior, offering a unique wild swimming experience. The high mountains often get snow in the winter months, so the water in the pools is very cool and refreshing compared to the sea. The Asco Valley is a stunning landscape of high peaks rising above a river valley, with rock pools dotted along its base. Our favourite is just past the little auberge in Asco village called E-Cime. Here, a left turn down an unmade road brings you to an old Genoese bridge, under which hides an enchanting natural swimming pool. You need to be quite sure-footed to make your way down (trainers that you don’t mind getting wet are ideal) but it’s well worth the effort. Parking is roadside only, so get here early and bag any spot you can.

The secret of ‘immortality’

Immortelle – Latin name Helichrysum italicum – is greatly sought-after for its fragrance and healing powers, and it grows wild in Corsica as part of the gloriously scented maquis that covers much of the island. Immortelle essential oil is distilled from the yellow flower heads, which are picked and then gently steamed to extract the oil. Historically the oil was used to fight infection, soothe pain and treat respiratory complaints, and nowadays it’s highly prized in luxury skincare products for its soothing and anti-aging properties. You can buy immortelle products in Calvi and the local area, but for a better understanding, visit the Astratella distillery in Lumio, which is open all year round.

Punta di Spanu

This rocky headland sits roughly halfway between Calvi and L’Île Rousse, so most people drive right by on their way from one to the other. A detour here is absolutely worth your time however… think perfectly clear water, backed by Corsica’s signature granite boulders and fragrant maquis. It’s a protected natural area, so there’s zero development apart from a helpful car park that lets you get within a few hundred metres of the shoreline, and a couple of abandoned buildings. The nearest beach – Plage du Rocher – does attract people due to the proximity of the car park, and it’s a beautiful and sheltered spot for snorkelling or swimming. To get further off the beaten track, just follow the coastal path in either direction and you’ll be rewarded with superb views over this wild landscape, and possibly the odd nudist taking advantage of the isolation. Two watch-outs: take care with your car as the road is pretty rough in places, and so is the sea off the point.

Pay homage Pasquale Paoli

Pretty much every Corsican town has a Place Napoleon, but you’ll also find many streets, squares, boulevards and even a university named after Pasquale Paoli, so who was he? Little known outside Corsica, Paoli is regarded as the father of the nation; born in 1725, he fought for Corsican independence first from Genoa and then from, before being exiled to England where he died. Paoli was one of the great intellectual France minds of his time, whose influence extended far beyond Corsica. In the little village of Morosaglia, close to Ponte Leccia in the Castagniccia region, you can find a museum dedicated to Paoli and his remarkable life. It takes about an hour and a half to drive there from Calvi, past the stone villages and chestnut forests that give the region its name; well worth the trip for the scenery alone. You might need your phone to help with translation, but you’ll leave with a deeper understanding of Corsica and its people.

Arinella and Algaio

In our view, these are two of the loveliest beaches near Calvi. The first, Arinella, is the beach of Lumio village, easily accessible with a free car park and a popular beach restaurant. Not exactly off the beaten track, that’s true, but if you come outside of August and in time for the sunset, it’s a truly magical spot; bring your own bottle and you’ll get same views you get from the Matahari restaurant, without the price-tag! If you don’t mind a short walk, then Algaio beach gives you a wilder experience. From the car park at Arinella beach, cross the railway track and turn immediately right. At the end of the road, a five-minute walk through the maquis brings you to the small beach of Algaio, which you might be lucky to have all to yourself, even in high season.

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