The feeling of being painted into the corner of a Canaletto rarely leaves the visitor in Venice. It is unique, incomparably beautiful and unchanging, a ravishing timewarp afloat in its lagoon. Whether you sightsee by gondola or local water-bus, the magnificent backdrop of piazzas, palazzos and picturesque bridges appears to have cast anchor too. Within awaits a glut of artistic treasures, but the city itself is the masterpiece.

As well as seeing the obvious – St Mark’s Square, the Grand Canal, the Bridge of Sighs, the Rialto – wander down lesser-known alleys and into quieter squares to discover a more intimate and personal Venice.