Siena & Southern Tuscany

Magnificently Gothic, apart from its Renaissance Duomo, Siena has two architectural signatures: the town hall and sky-scraping Torre del Mangia which flank the Campo’s incomparable oval, venue for the thrilling Palio horse races. The rest of the year, the Sienese and their visitors bask in its glories as they consume pasta, ice cream and coffee on the sidelines.

The countryside to the south sweeps along in great folds of vineyards, olive groves and crops planted in rich red earth. This is not Chianti country, but that of some of the best wines in Italy – Brunello di Montalcino, Sassicaia and Montepulciano’s Vino Nobile. Here the smallest village can boast a gastronomic restaurant, while unassuming little bars offer treats of garlicky bruschetta to encourage you to taste the wine.

Not all goodies are on a plate. Montepulciano has the exquisite San Biagio Renaissance church outside its walls, and within them the cathedral presiding over a web of little streets. Nearby Pienza, an adorable custombuilt Renaissance town, is the place to buy pecorino and ricotta cheese. In Montalcino’s castle enoteca you can buy wine. And don't miss the superb Benedictine Abbey of Sant’ Antimo in its wonderful wooded setting.

Other towns worth a detour: Cortona, which offers dizzying views over the Val di Chiana and a feast of Etruscan antiquities; and Arezzo, which hosts a famous antiques market every first Sunday in the month.