Restful Riads
Deep in the labyrinthine Medina away from the bustle of the souk, you will come upon quieter, dusty alleys with high walls, broken only by an unremarkable solid front door. Inside all is calm and beautiful: a leafy courtyard, usually with a fountain or pool, surrounded by flowering plants and orange trees.

Riads, the mansions of the old Moroccan bourgeoisie, are always plain outside and sensual, ornate and often sumptuous within.

It is in details that Moroccan architecture is so stunning. Incised stucco in fine lacy patterns or sometimes calligraphy, zelliges – the intricate tile-work often in blues and greens, moucharabieh – wooden window lattices and partitions, which traditionally allowed women to look out without being seen, and brass hanging lights, where patterns cut into the metal throw filigree light onto walls and columns.

Many of these riads have been rescued and restored as small elegant, sometimes-opulent guesthouses; tranquil havens with a relaxed and intimate atmosphere and an age-old tradition of hospitality. Days pass timelessly; service is attentive yet friendly, bedrooms are delightful, and birds sing in the orange trees.

Cookery and couscous
Moroccan cuisine combines elements of Mediterranean and Moorish cooking using the freshest of fish, meat and homegrown vegetables. It is also known for its spices and fragrances; cumin, coriander, saffron, fiery harissa, rose water and dried fruit are some of the ingredients, which give the food its unique flavours. Among the best-known dishes are the seven vegetable couscous, usually served with chicken or lamb, or a rich tajine, a juicy stew slowly cooked in a peaked clay pot.

Souks and spice
In the souks of the Medina, local craftsmen use the same materials and techniques that they have for centuries to produce their wares. This is the place to browse and barter for kaftans, jewel-covered kid babouches (slippers), copper dishes, a length of silk organza, or simply a tiny bag of saffron.