So much more than sun, sand and sierra

Spain is one of the most familiar yet least known of the European countries bordering the Mediterranean. This is particularly true of the province of Andalucía and the Balearic island of Mallorca. Move inland a few kilometres from the well-known resorts and a whole other world opens up.

It’s not just a question of getting away from the crowds. It’s about finding the true spirit of the place – in the dramatic landscapes of the Axarquía, the back country that runs north to Granada; in the Pueblos Blancos, the dazzling white hilltop towns built by the Moors, full of churches, sunny squares and shady cobbled streets; and in the charismatic cities of Granada, Seville and Córdoba, packed with historical curiosities, art treasures and exuberant life.

As for perennially popular Mallorca, it has vast areas of tranquil rural beauty rarely seen by most visitors. Red-tiled villages basking amid olive groves in the foothills of the Serra de Tramuntana. Isolated monasteries and primitive sanctuaries. Sleepy old towns with whimsical sundials and great markets. Spectacular strips of coast hide tiny empty beaches. And everywhere is accessible on an island that’s barely 40 miles in any direction, whether you tour by car or set out in boots with backpack. The walkers really do get the best of it. And that goes for Andalucía too. For however wild the terrain, there are always places to come to a halt where the food will be farm fresh, the wine made from local grapes and the welcome all the warmer because you have chosen to discover a corner of ‘real’